General Tree and Shrub
Care Tips
Planting Trees and Shrubs
Mulching
Landscape In Drought Conditions
Trees and Turf
Think of the tree you just purchased as a lifetime investment.
How well your tree and investment grows depends on the type
of tree and location you select for planting, the care you
provide when the tree is planted, and the follow-up care the
tree receives after planting.
The ideal time to plant trees and shrubs is during the
dormant season—fall after leafdrop or early spring before bud-break.
Weather conditions are cool and allow plants to establish
roots in the new location before spring rains and summer heat
stimulate new top growth. However, trees properly cared for
in the nursery or garden center, and given the appropriate
care during transport to prevent damage, can be planted throughout
the growing season. In either situation, proper handling during
planting is essential to ensure a healthy future for new trees
and shrubs. Before you begin planting your tree, be sure you
have had all underground utilities located prior to digging.
If the tree you are planting is balled and burlapped,
or bare rooted, it is important to understand that the tree's
root system has been reduced by 90-95% of its original size
during transplanting. As a result of the trauma caused by
the digging process, trees will commonly exhibit what it knows
as "transplant shock" (TS). TS is indicated by slow growth
and reduced vigor following transplanting. Proper site preparation
before and during planting, coupled with good follow-up care
will reduce the amount of time that plant experiences TS and
will allow the tree to quickly establish in its new location.
Carefully follow eight simple steps and you can significantly
reduce the stress placed on the plant at the time of planting.
A:
2-4" layer of mulch
B: Keep mulch 2-3" back
from trunk
C: Cut burlap and rope away from top third
of root ball |
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D:
Trunk flare — keep visible
E: Use two opposing, flexible ties — when
staking is necessary |
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F: Gently pack back-fill, using water
to settle soil around root ball
G: Set ball on firmly packed
soil to prevent settling |
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Make the hole wide, as much as three times the diameter
of the root ball, but only as deep as the root ball. It is
important to make the hold wide because the tree roots on
the newly establishing tree must push through surrounding
soil to establish. On most planting sites in new developments,
the existing soils have been compacted and are unsuitable
for healthy root growth. Breaking up the soil in a large area
around the tree provides the newly emerging roots room to
expand into loose soil to hasten establishment.
The trunk flare is where the roots spread at the base
of the tree. This point should be partially visible after
the tree has been planted (see diagram). If the trunk flare
is not partially visible, you may have to remove some soil
from the top of the root ball. Find it so you can determine
how deep the hole needs to be for proper planting.
Before placing the tree in the hole, check to see that
the hole has been dug to the proper depth, and no more. The
majority of the roots on the newly planted tree will develop
in the top 12" of soil. If the tree is planted too deep, new
roots will have difficulty developing due to a lack of oxygen.
It is better to plant the tree a little high, 1-2" above the
base of the trunk flare, than to plant it at or below the
original growing level. This will allow for some settling
(see diagram). To avoid damage when setting the tree in the
hole, always lift the tree by the root ball, and never by
the trunk.
Before you begin backfilling have someone view the tree
from several directions to confirm the tree is straight. Once
you begin backfilling it is difficult to reposition.
Fill the hole about 1/3 full and gently but firmly pack
the soil around the base of the root ball. Then, if the tree
is balled and burlapped, cut and remove the string and wire
from around the trunk and top 1/3 of the root ball (see diagram).
Be careful not to damage the trunk or roots in the process.
Fill the remainder of the hole taking care to firmly
pack soil to eliminate air pockets that may cause roots to
dry out. To avoid this problem, add the soil a few inches
at a time and settle with water. Continue this process until
the hole is filled and the tree is firmly planted. It is not
recommended to apply fertilizer at the time of planting.
If the tree is grown and dug properly at the nursery
staking for support is not necessary in most home landscape
situations. Studies have shown that trees will establish more
quickly and develop stronger trunk root systems if they are
not staked at the time of planting. However, protective staking
may be required on sites where lawn mower damage, vandalism
or windy conditions are concerns. If staking is necessary
for support, two stakes used in conjunction with a wide flexible
tie material will hold the tree upright, provide flexibility,
and minimize injury to the trunk (see diagram). Remove support
staking and ties after the first year of growth. Leave protective
staking in place as long as necessary.
Mulch is simply organic matter applied to the area at
the base of the tree. It acts as a blanket to hold moisture,
protect against harsh soil temperatures, both hot and cold,
and reduces competition from grass and weeds. Some good choices
are leaf litter, pine straw, shredded bark, peat moss, and
wood chips. A two to four inch layer is ideal. More than four
inches may cause a problem with gas exchange. When placing
mulch, care should be taken so that the actual trunk of the
tree is not covered. This may cause decay of the living bark
at the base of the tree. A mulch free area, one to two inches
wide at the base of the tree, is sufficient to avoid moist
bark conditions and prevent decay.
Keep the soil moist but not soaked, overwatering will
cause leaves to turn yellow or fall off. Water trees at least
once a week, barring rain, and more frequently during hot
weather. When the soil is dry below the surface of the mulch,
it is time to water. Continue until mid-fall tapering off
for lower temperatures that require less frequent watering.
Other follow-up care may include minor pruning of branches
damaged during the planting process. Prune sparingly immediately
after planting, and wait to begin necessary corrective pruning
until after a full season of growth in the new location.
After you've completed these eight simple steps, further
routine care and favorable weather conditions will ensure
that your new tree or shrub will grow and thrive. A valuable
asset to any landscape, trees provide a long-lasting source
of beauty and enjoyment for people of all ages. When questions
arise about the care of your tree, be sure to consult One
Step for assistance. If you need more help or information with this
topic or any other lawn or tree care questions, please contact
us.
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- Improves soil structure
- Adds organic matter
- Aerates
- Retains soil moisture by reducing soil water loss
- Encourages root development
- Suppresses weeds
- Protects against temperature extremes
- Reduces erosion
Organic mulch
- Shredded pine bark, cedar, wood chips
- As they decompose, they add beneficial organic matter
to the soil
Hard
- Mineral base, stone, brick chips, lava rock
- Tend not to blow around
- Generates heat
Proper depth should be 2-4", over mulching can
lead to plant suffocation.
Never bury stems or pile mulch up against the trunks of trees and
shrubs.
This holds moisture in the wrong place leading to rot,
decay, dieback and even plant death. Trunk flares should always
be visible.
Leave
an area of approximately 2-3" around the
base of the plants clear of any mulch.
Make mulch donuts, not mulch volcanoes.
If you need more help or information with this
topic or any other lawn or tree care questions, please contact
us.
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Common symptoms of inadequate water for trees and shrubs
include leaf scorch, wilting, premature coloration and leaf
drop. The consequence of all of this is a reduction in carbohydrate
production, leaving the plants experiencing stress and becoming more
susceptible to damage by insects and diseases. In addition, if plants
are stressed in the fall they are more susceptible to winter freezing
damage and dieback.
Steps you can take during drought situations.
1. Irrigate plants thoroughly. Recently
transplanted woody plants need special attention due to their limited
root systems. During periods of prolonged drought even established
plants need to be irrigated. Water slowly in order
to percolate down into the soil rather than run off the surface. Containers
that hold water and let moisture slowly trickle out can make this process
easier. A commercially available product called a Treegater® does
the job, as does a large plastic bucket with small holes drilled in
the bottom or a soaker hose.
2. Mulch plants with a 2 to 4 inch layer
of organic material (shredded bark, bark nuggets, wood chips,
etc.) to conserve soil moisture, reduce weed problems and improve soil
structure.
3. Inspect all plants for insect and
disease problems and manage them as necessary.
4. Prune out dead branches immediately.
5. Do not fertilize. If fertilization
is necessary, wait until adequate soil moisture is present to avoid
fertilizer burn.
©2002 Cornell Cooperative Extension in Monroe County
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topic or any other lawn or tree care questions, please contact
us.
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Woody plants and turfgrasses are both critical components
of design plans for homes, offices and parks. Trees and turf offer
distinct personal, functional, and environmental benefits. Personal
preferences for color, fragrance and form should complement the functional
properties of size, shape, density, and placement of plant material.
Turfgrasses provide many of the same environmental benefits
as trees. They (1) change carbon dioxide into the oxygen we breathe;
(2) cool the air by changing water into water vapor; (3) stabilize
dust; (4) entrap air polluting gases; and (5) control erosion.
Turfgrasses, in addition to being environmentally beneficial, are attractive
in formal and informal designs. There are many advantages to combining trees
and turf in the landscape.
When trees and turf are used in the same areas, extra
attention must be given to plant material selection in addition to
the usual hardiness, climatic and soil needs. An effort should be made
to make the trees and lawn compatible. Grass is generally a sun-loving
plant. Most grass species will not grow well in areas that get less
than 50 percent open sunlight; however, new varieties with improved
shade tolerance are being introduced. Consult your garden center specialist
or sod producer for recommendations of shade-tolerant grasses for your
area.
In areas where the lawn is the primary design feature,
select woody plants that do the least damage to grass growth and maintenance.
The woody plants should be small, have an open canopy (trees that allow
sunlight to penetrate to the ground) or have a high canopy. Select
trees that do not root near the soil surface; surface rooting is most
serious where a shallow topsoil is present. Remember, tree roots get
larger as the tree gets older.
Trees, shrubs, ground covers, and lawn grasses all require
sunlight, water and rooting space for growth. Each plant in the landscape
competes with the neighboring plant regardless of types or species.
Some even produce chemicals that are exuded from roots to restrict
growth of nearby plants. For each plant to do well, it must have adequate
space. Since perennial woody plants increase in size each year, they
require additional space over time. The landscape design should provide
adequate space for these plants.
While shade may be the greatest negative, tree-related
influence on turf growth, tree roots also create problems. Contrary
to general thinking, most tree roots are in the top three feet of soil.
More importantly, the majority of fine, absorbing roots are in the
top six inches of soil. While grass roots ordinarily occupy a much
greater percentage of the soil volume than the tree roots and out-compete
them for water and nutrients, especially around young trees, grass
root density is often much lower in areas where trees were established
first. In these situations, tree roots compete much better for water
and nutrients and prevent or reduce the success of establishing new
turf.
Competition is especially important when transplanting, seeding or sodding.
The newest plant in the area must be given special treatment and must receive
adequate water, nutrients and sunlight. This frequently means that competing
sod should be removed from around transplanted trees and shrubs, or that some
of the lower branches should be removed from existing trees above a newly sodded
lawn.
Mulching is an alternative to turf around trees and its use eliminates potential
competition. A 2 to 4 inch layer of wood chips, bark or other organic material
over the tree rooting space is recommended because it: (1) helps to retain
soil moisture; (2) helps to reduce weeds and control grass; (3) increases soil
fertility when mulch decomposes; (4) improves appearance; (5) protects the
trunk from injuries caused by mowing equipment and trimmers that often result
in serious tree damage or death; and (6) improves soil structure (better aeration,
temperature and moisture conditions).
Maintenance practices for trees and turf are different
and treatment of one can unintentionally damage the other. Because
tree and grass roots exist together in the upper 6 to 8 inches of the
topsoil, treatment of one may damage the other. Fertilizer applied
to one plant will also be absorbed by the roots of a nearby plant.
Normally this is good; but excessive fertilization of either trees
or turf can result in tree-crown or grass-blade growth greater than
that desired.
Trees and shrubs are broadleaved plants as are most weeds
in lawns. Many herbicides or weed killers that are used in turf can
cause severe damage to trees when misapplied. This can occur on windy
days causing the drift to fall on non-target plants or on hot days
when the herbicide may vaporize and diffuse into the air. While most
herbicides do not kill tree roots, some, such as soil sterilants and
a few others do. Herbicides that can cause tree damage have statements
on their labels warning against using the product “near trees.”
Problems can also result from misuse of other pesticides
and fertilizers. Label instructions should be followed precisely, and
pesticides/foliar fertilizers should not be applied on windy days.
Consult your garden center staff for advice on pesticide selection
and use.
Watering of lawns is beneficial to trees if the watering
is done correctly. Trees need the equivalent of one inch of rain every
seven to ten days. Applying frequent, shallow watering does not properly
meet the needs of either trees or turf and can be harmful to both.
Turf growing under or near trees should be mowed at the
top of its recommended mowing height. Mowing off no more than one-third
of the grass blade’s height and letting the clippings remain
on the lawn will do much to ensure a healthy and vigorous lawn. In
an ideal situation, tree and turf maintenance would be handled by the
same individual in order to maximize the benefits of all maintenance
practices.
Construction damage prior to lawn establishment.
Compaction of topsoil containing tree roots by heavy
equipment kills more trees around homes than disease organisms. Compaction
is greatest when the soil is wet. Consult a tree care expert about
tree protection prior to home construction projects.
Fill dirt around existing trees.
Fill dirt is frequently added around existing mature
trees so that a level or more visually desirable lawn can be established.
Fill dirt changes the ratio of oxygen to carbon dioxide around tree
roots and the roots may die. Consult a tree care expert before adding
fill constructing soil wells around tree trunks.
Establishing lawns around existing trees.
Preparation of a seedbed for lawns requires disruption
of the upper 4 to 6 inches of topsoil. This soil contains the feeder
roots of trees. Damage to tree roots often results in declining tree
tops.
Tree root buffers created with turf.
A sufficiently wide strip of turfgrass between trees
and hard surfaces such as building foundations, sidewalks and roads
can help to reduce the potential damage caused by tree roots as well
as provide an area where water and nutrients can soak into the soil
and be beneficial to both turf and trees.
Lawn watering in arid sites.
Homes are sometimes built in woodlots. In the West, this
is especially damaging when dryland trees encounter watering required
to maintain grass. Excess water at the tree trunk encourages growth
of fungi that can kill trees.
Numerous other special situations exist. Sod producers,
arborists or garden center operators will have suggestions for correcting
or alleviating problems that may arise concerning trees and turf.
Think turfgrass growing around trunk-scarred, weak trees
need not be a common sight in the landscape. With proper preplanning,
proper plant selection and placement, and reasonable management, the
many and varied benefits of both trees and turf can be readily achieved.
If you need more help or information with this
topic or any other lawn or tree care questions, please contact
us.
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